7 Steps to Close Your Inground Pool Like a Pro for Winter

Closing an Inground Pool

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Closing an Inground Pool

As summer’s golden glow fades and the crisp air of autumn arrives, it’s time to bid farewell to the refreshing embrace of your inground pool. However, simply abandoning your aquatic oasis until next year is a recipe for disaster. Closing your pool correctly is crucial for preserving its integrity and ensuring a smooth, hassle-free opening come springtime. Ignoring this essential process can lead to a host of problems, from algae infestations and stained surfaces to damaged equipment and costly repairs. Therefore, understanding the proper steps to winterize your pool is a vital investment in its longevity and your peace of mind. This guide will provide a comprehensive overview of the closing process, ensuring you have the knowledge and confidence to protect your investment and prepare it for a season of hibernation.

Firstly, you’ll need to balance your pool’s chemistry meticulously. This is paramount to preventing staining, scaling, and corrosion during the off-season. Use a reliable test kit to measure and adjust your pool’s pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels. Subsequently, shock the pool with a high dose of chlorine to eliminate any lingering bacteria or algae. Next, thoroughly clean the pool, brushing the walls and floor to dislodge any debris. Moreover, vacuum the pool to remove settled particles and ensure a pristine environment for winter. Afterward, backwash your filter to clear out accumulated contaminants. Furthermore, depending on your filter type, you may need to clean it further, either by chemically cleaning a sand or DE filter or soaking cartridge filters. Remember, a clean filter is crucial for a healthy pool opening in the spring.

Finally, once the water chemistry is balanced and the pool is clean, you can begin lowering the water level. Typically, the water should be lowered below the skimmer openings, but be sure to consult your specific pool equipment manuals for guidance. Additionally, you will need to drain the water from your pool’s plumbing lines to prevent freezing and damage. This can be accomplished using a shop vac or by blowing out the lines with compressed air. Furthermore, add winterizing chemicals to the remaining pool water to prevent algae growth and scaling. Afterward, cover the pool with a secure winter cover. This final step is crucial for protecting your pool from debris, leaves, and harsh weather conditions. By diligently following these steps, you can rest assured that your pool will be ready for another season of enjoyment when the warm weather returns. Ultimately, a properly closed pool reflects a homeowner’s commitment to maintaining their investment and enjoying years of refreshing summer fun.

Balancing Your Pool Water Chemistry

Getting your pool water chemistry just right is super important before you close it up for the winter. Think of it like putting your car in storage – you wouldn’t want to leave it with a near-empty gas tank, right? Similarly, imbalanced water can cause all sorts of problems during the off-season, like staining, scaling, and even damage to your pool surfaces and equipment. Taking the time to balance your water now will save you headaches (and potentially money) in the spring.

Why is Balancing So Important?

Balanced water is less likely to harbor algae and bacteria growth during the winter months. It also protects your pool liner, tiles, and equipment from the damaging effects of corrosive or scale-forming water. Essentially, you’re creating a stable environment that minimizes the risk of unpleasant surprises when you open your pool back up.

Testing Your Water

Before you start adjusting anything, you need to know what you’re working with. Use a reliable test kit to check the following levels:

Chemical Ideal Range
pH 7.2-7.6
Total Alkalinity 80-120 ppm
Calcium Hardness 200-400 ppm
Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) 30-50 ppm

You can usually find test kits at your local pool supply store. There are different types available, from simple test strips to more comprehensive liquid test kits. For closing your pool, it’s best to use a liquid test kit, as these tend to provide more accurate readings. Follow the instructions on your chosen kit carefully to get reliable results.

Adjusting Your Chemicals

Once you have your test results, you can start making adjustments. It’s crucial to add chemicals one at a time and retest frequently. Adding too much of one chemical can throw off the balance of others, so patience is key here. Refer to the instructions on the chemical packaging for the appropriate dosages for your pool size. Here’s a general guideline:

  • pH: If your pH is too low, use a pH increaser (like soda ash). If it’s too high, use a pH decreaser (like sodium bisulfate).
  • Total Alkalinity: Adjust this before tackling pH. Use an alkalinity increaser or decreaser as needed.
  • Calcium Hardness: Increase calcium hardness with calcium chloride. Lowering it is trickier and often involves partially draining and refilling the pool.
  • Cyanuric Acid: Add stabilizer if your level is too low. If it’s too high, you’ll need to partially drain and refill the pool.

It’s best to add chemicals at different locations around the pool and brush the water to ensure even distribution. Run your pool pump for several hours after adding chemicals to circulate them thoroughly. Retest your water after 24 hours and make further adjustments if necessary. Don’t rush this process! Taking the time to balance your water correctly now will make opening your pool next spring a much smoother and more enjoyable experience.

Remember to always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your chosen chemicals and wear appropriate safety gear, like gloves and eye protection.

Lowering the Water Level

Getting the water level right is key to a successful pool closing. Too high, and you risk damage from freezing water. Too low, and you could expose the liner and other pool components. So, let’s dive into how to achieve that perfect water level.

Methods for Lowering the Water Level

You have a few options when it comes to lowering your pool’s water level, each with its own pros and cons. Choosing the right method depends on your pool setup and personal preference.

1. Submersible Pump

This is the most common and arguably the easiest method. A submersible pump sits in your pool and pumps the water out through a connected hose. You can direct the hose wherever you need to drain the water – a nearby drain, your lawn (if your landscaping can handle it), or even use it to water your plants (provided you haven’t added too many pool chemicals yet). Submersible pumps are relatively inexpensive and widely available at most pool supply stores. They vary in power, so choose one that’s appropriate for the size of your pool.

2. Manual Siphoning

Siphoning is a classic, low-tech method. It involves filling a hose with water, then submerging one end in the pool and placing the other end lower than the pool’s water level. Gravity does the rest, pulling water out of the pool. This method is free (assuming you already have a hose), but it can be time-consuming, especially for larger pools. It also requires a bit of physical effort to start the siphon. And remember, wherever the discharge end of the hose is placed needs to be lower than the pool water level, which isn’t always feasible.

3. Draining Through the Filter System

Many pool filter systems have a “waste” or “backwash” setting. This setting bypasses the filter and sends water directly out of the pool through a designated backwash hose. This can be a convenient way to lower the water, but it’s essential to understand how your specific filter system works. Some systems might require specific valve configurations, and it’s crucial to avoid running the pump dry. Consult your filter system’s manual for detailed instructions. This is also a good option to use if you want to clean your filter while lowering the water level, as it essentially flushes out debris. Here’s a handy table to help you decide which method might be best for you:

Method Cost Speed Ease of Use
Submersible Pump Moderate Fast Easy
Manual Siphoning Low (Free if you have a hose) Slow Moderate
Draining Through Filter System Low (using existing system) Moderate Moderate (requires understanding of filter system)

No matter which method you choose, be sure to monitor the water level closely. You don’t want to lower it too much! For most inground pools, the water level should be about 6-18 inches below the skimmer. This protects the skimmer and other pool components from winter damage. Once you’ve reached the desired level, you can move on to the next steps in the closing process. So, pick your method, get draining, and get one step closer to a worry-free winter!

Winterizing Your Pool Plumbing

Getting your pool’s plumbing ready for the cold season is key to avoiding costly repairs come springtime. Freezing water expands, and that can wreak havoc on your pipes, filter, pump, and heater. So, let’s dive into how to protect these vital components.

Lowering Water Level

First things first, you’ll need to lower the water level in your pool. How much depends on the type of pool you have. For skimmers, lower the water about 6 inches below the skimmer’s mouth. If you have tile, bring the water level below the tile line. For pools with overflow drains or gutters, you’ll want the water below the freeze line or the lowest return line. Check your owner’s manual to make sure or chat with a pool professional if you are uncertain.

Draining the Equipment

Next, it’s time to drain all the water out of your pool equipment. This includes your pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, and any other water-containing devices. Most pumps have drain plugs that you can easily open. For filters, the process varies depending on the type. Sand filters usually have a drain plug, while cartridge filters need to be removed and emptied. Diatomaceous earth (DE) filters usually also have a drain plug. Don’t forget to check your owner’s manual for specific instructions.

Blowing Out the Lines

Now for the really important part: clearing the water out of your plumbing lines. This is usually done using a shop vac or a specialized pool blower. The idea is to force all the water out of the pipes and into the pool so that nothing is left to freeze. You’ll want to start at the skimmer and work your way through each return line. Once you’ve blown out a line, quickly plug it with a winterizing plug (also known as a Gizzmo). Don’t forget any auxiliary lines that may exist like cleaner lines and waterfall lines.

Adding Antifreeze

Even after blowing out the lines, there might still be some residual water. To be extra safe, add pool antifreeze to the plumbing lines. You can pour it directly into the skimmer, pump, and filter housings. You can also use a small funnel to add antifreeze directly to the lines before plugging them. Be sure to use a non-toxic, pool-grade antifreeze to prevent any damage to your equipment or the environment. Remember, read the product instructions for proper dosage.

Protecting Your Equipment

With the plumbing taken care of, let’s focus on safeguarding the larger pieces of equipment. For your pump and filter, you have a few options. Some people remove them completely and store them indoors for the winter. This offers the best protection but can be a bit of a hassle. If you choose to leave your pump and filter outside, remove the drain plugs to allow any remaining water to escape. Be sure to store your DE or Cartridge Filter media in a dry location. Consider covering your equipment with a tarp or weatherproof cover for extra protection against the elements. If you have a chlorinator, remove and clean it thoroughly according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The following table summarizes the key areas you need to winterize, along with where they are typically located and tips for protecting them.

Component Location Winterizing Tip
Pump Equipment Pad Drain, plug openings, and cover.
Filter Equipment Pad Drain, remove cartridge/DE media, and cover.
Heater Equipment Pad Drain and isolate gas supply (if applicable).
Chlorinator Equipment Pad Remove, clean, and store indoors.
Plumbing Lines Underground Blow out lines, plug with winterizing plugs, add antifreeze.

Adding Winterizing Chemicals

Alright, so you’ve got your pool mostly prepped for its winter slumber – the cover’s almost ready to go on, but not quite yet! This is the crucial stage where we introduce the winterizing chemicals. These chemicals are your pool’s best defense against algae and other unwanted guests setting up shop while the water is dormant. Think of it as tucking your pool in with a cozy, protective blanket of chemistry.

Choosing the Right Winterizing Kit

You can often find winterizing kits at your local pool supply store. These kits usually contain the essential chemicals you’ll need, often conveniently packaged together. However, it’s a good idea to have your pool water tested before you buy anything. A professional can tell you precisely which chemicals and how much of each you need based on your pool’s specific chemistry. This personalized approach ensures your pool gets exactly what it requires for optimal winter protection.

Balancing Your Pool’s Chemistry

Before adding any winterizing chemicals, ensure your pool’s water chemistry is balanced. This means checking and adjusting the pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels. These factors play a significant role in how effective the winterizing chemicals will be. Aim for a pH between 7.2 and 7.6, total alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm (parts per million), and calcium hardness between 180 and 220 ppm (although this can vary depending on your pool’s surface). You can use test strips or a liquid test kit to get these readings. Adjust these levels according to the instructions on your chosen balancing chemicals. Getting this balance right beforehand will prevent scaling, staining, and other issues over the winter months.

Adding the Winterizing Chemicals

Once your water chemistry is balanced, it’s time to add the winterizing chemicals. Follow the instructions on your chosen product or the advice from your pool professional carefully. Typically, you’ll add an algaecide to prevent algae growth. This is especially important because algae love to bloom in stagnant water, and a winterized pool is prime real estate for them! You might also add a winterizing agent or a chlorine-free shock treatment, depending on your specific needs and climate. Remember to add the chemicals one at a time, allowing each to circulate thoroughly before adding the next. This ensures even distribution and prevents potential chemical reactions.

Distributing the Chemicals Evenly

After adding each chemical, run your pool’s filter system for at least 24 hours. This circulates the chemicals throughout the pool, ensuring complete coverage and maximum effectiveness. The better the distribution, the better protected your pool will be against algae and other unwanted surprises come springtime. Be sure to follow any specific instructions on your chosen chemicals regarding filter run times.

Table of Common Winterizing Chemicals

Chemical Purpose Typical Dosage
Algaecide Prevents algae growth Varies based on product, typically 1-2 quarts per 10,000 gallons
Chlorine-free Shock Oxidizes organic matter Varies based on product, typically 1-2 lbs per 10,000 gallons
Winterizing Agent (Optional) Helps prevent scaling and staining Varies based on product

Post-Chemical Treatment

After the chemicals have circulated for a full 24 hours, you can finally close your pool. Covering your pool locks in those beneficial chemicals and protects your pool from debris, rain, and snow throughout the winter. Before closing the pool entirely, ensure the water level is appropriate for your type of cover and climate. Once the cover is securely in place, your pool is officially tucked in for the winter, safe and sound thanks to those essential winterizing chemicals. Now you can relax and dream of warm summer swims!

Covering Your Pool

Alright, so you’ve balanced the chemicals, lowered the water level, and all that jazz. Now comes the grand finale of pool closing: putting on the cover. This isn’t just about keeping leaves out; a good cover protects your pool from winter’s harsh elements and makes opening it next spring a breeze. Choosing the right cover is crucial, and there are a few different options.

Types of Pool Covers

Let’s talk cover types. You’ve got your basic mesh covers, which are lightweight and let water (but not debris) pass through. They’re generally the most affordable. Then there are solid covers, which block everything, including sunlight. These are great for preventing algae growth. Finally, there are automatic safety covers, which are motorized and retract at the push of a button. They’re the priciest, but they offer the most convenience and safety.

Choosing the Right Cover for Your Needs

So, which cover is right for you? If you’re on a budget and mainly worried about leaves, a mesh cover is probably fine. If you want to completely seal your pool and prevent algae, go with a solid cover. And if convenience and safety are top priorities (especially if you have kids or pets), an automatic cover is worth considering.

Preparing the Cover

Before you wrestle that cover onto your pool, make sure it’s clean. If it’s been stored away, it might need a good scrub. Use a mild soap and water solution and rinse it thoroughly. You also want to inspect it for any rips or tears. A small tear now can become a big headache later.

Securing the Cover

Now for the main event. Carefully position the cover over the pool, making sure it’s centered. Most covers come with water bags or anchors. Fill the water bags and place them around the perimeter of the pool, on top of the cover. This will weigh it down and keep it secure, even in windy conditions. For covers with anchors, you’ll need to attach them to straps on the cover and then secure them to anchors in your pool deck.

Winter Cover Maintenance

Just because your pool is covered doesn’t mean you can forget about it entirely. Throughout the winter, it’s a good idea to check on the cover periodically. Remove any excess water or snow that has accumulated. Heavy snow can stretch and damage the cover. A pool cover pump is handy for removing standing water. Also, keep an eye out for any signs of wear and tear.

Dealing with Water on Top of the Cover

Dealing with water accumulating on top of your pool cover is important for several reasons. Excessive water weight can stress the cover and potentially damage it. Standing water can also become a breeding ground for mosquitoes and other pests. Plus, it just looks unsightly. Regularly removing this water is key to maintaining the integrity of your cover and keeping your backyard looking tidy. You can do this by using a cover pump, a simple siphon, or even by sweeping the water off with a soft broom if there’s just a small amount.

Choosing the Right Cover Material

Pool covers are typically made from different materials, each with its own pros and cons. Here’s a quick breakdown:

Material Pros Cons
Mesh Lightweight, affordable, allows water to pass through Doesn’t block sunlight, may allow fine debris to pass through
Solid Vinyl Blocks sunlight, prevents algae growth, keeps debris out Heavier, more expensive

Storing Pool Equipment and Accessories

Alright, so you’ve prepped your pool for its winter hibernation. Now, let’s talk about what to do with all the gear that keeps it sparkling during the swim season. Properly storing your pool equipment and accessories isn’t just about tidying up; it’s about protecting your investment and ensuring everything’s in tip-top shape when you’re ready to open your pool again next year.

Cleaning and Drying is Key

Before you stash anything away, give it a good cleaning. Hose down your pool vacuum, skimmers, brushes, and any other tools that have come into contact with pool water. This removes chlorine and other chemicals that can cause corrosion or damage over time. Let everything dry completely in the sun to prevent mold and mildew growth. Trust me, you’ll thank yourself in the spring!

Taking Care of the Filter System

Your filter system is the heart of your pool’s cleaning system, so it deserves some extra attention. If you have a cartridge filter, remove the cartridge, clean it thoroughly, and let it dry completely before storing it in a clean, dry place. For DE filters, give them a good backwash and then remove the grids for cleaning. Sand filters can usually be backwashed and left as is. Be sure to consult your specific filter manufacturer instructions because they may have different needs.

Winterizing Your Pump and Heater

To protect your pump and heater from freeze damage, it’s crucial to drain all the water out of them. This includes removing drain plugs and loosening any unions. If you live in an area with particularly harsh winters, you might also consider using a shop vac to blow any remaining water out of the lines. Some pool owners opt to use a special pool antifreeze in these components as added protection, but always check with your product manuals for the recommended procedures.

Storing Smaller Accessories

Those smaller accessories like thermometers, testing kits, and cleaning solutions also need a proper home for the winter. Gather them up and store them in a waterproof container to protect them from the elements and keep them organized. A clear plastic bin works great so you can easily see what’s inside. Storing these items in a climate-controlled environment, like a garage or basement, is ideal to prevent damage from extreme temperatures.

Hosing and Covering Pool Toys and Floats

Don’t forget about those inflatable pool toys and floats! Give them a good cleaning with mild soap and water, then let them dry thoroughly in the sun before deflating them. Once deflated, fold them neatly and store them in a large plastic bag or container to keep them clean and protected. This will prevent them from cracking or becoming brittle over the winter.

Organizing and Labeling Everything

As you’re packing everything away, take a moment to organize and label your storage containers. This will make it so much easier to find what you need when you’re ready to open your pool again next spring. You can use labels, markers, or even color-coded containers to keep everything straight. Trust me, future you will be grateful!

A Place for Everything

Choose a dry, protected location to store all of your pool equipment and accessories. A shed, garage, or basement is ideal. Avoid storing items directly on the ground, as moisture can lead to mildew and damage. Consider using shelves or pallets to keep everything off the ground and organized.

Storing Chemicals Safely

Storing pool chemicals properly is crucial for safety. Keep them in their original containers, clearly labeled, and away from children and pets. Store chemicals in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area, away from any flammable materials. Never mix different chemicals together, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for storage and disposal.

Item Storage Method Location
Filter Cartridge Cleaned and dried, in a sealed bag Garage shelf
Pool Pump Drained of all water Garage floor (elevated)
Pool Heater Drained of all water, possibly antifreeze Garage floor (elevated)
Pool Toys/Floats Cleaned, dried, deflated, and in a storage bin Shed
Chemicals Original containers, clearly labeled Well-ventilated storage area

Post-Closure Maintenance and Checks

Closing your inground pool isn’t a “set it and forget it” kind of task. Regular checks and a little bit of maintenance throughout the off-season will make opening your pool next spring a breeze and help prevent any nasty surprises. Ignoring your pool all winter can lead to bigger problems, potentially costing you more time and money down the line. So, let’s dive into what you need to keep an eye on.

Water Level Monitoring

Keep a close watch on your pool’s water level throughout the winter. Ideally, the water level should stay about halfway up the skimmer opening. Too low, and you risk exposing the liner and potentially damaging the skimmer. Too high, and heavy rain or snowmelt could overflow the pool, carrying debris and contaminants back into the water. Check the water level every couple of weeks, especially after a heavy rain or snowfall. If you notice the water level dropping significantly, investigate for leaks and add water as needed. Conversely, if the level is too high, use a submersible pump to remove some water.

Cover Integrity and Adjustments

Your pool cover is your pool’s primary defense against the elements during winter. Make sure it stays secure and in good condition. Regularly remove any accumulated snow, leaves, or debris. Heavy snow can weigh down the cover and stress the structure, potentially causing damage. Leaves and other organic matter can decompose and contaminate the water. Use a pool cover pump or a soft broom to remove water and debris. If you notice any tears or damage to the cover, patch them promptly to prevent further deterioration and keep debris out.

Water Chemistry Checkups (Especially Important!)

While your pool is closed, water chemistry can still fluctuate. It’s a good idea to test the water every 4-6 weeks, particularly for pH and alkalinity. These two parameters are key to preventing scaling and corrosion. Adjust them as needed, even during the winter, following the instructions on your chosen winterizing chemicals. This proactive approach will make balancing the water much easier come springtime. You may also want to periodically check the sanitizer level to ensure it remains within an acceptable range to prevent algae growth.

Tips for Effective Water Chemistry Maintenance

Maintaining proper water chemistry throughout winter is a crucial part of pool closing maintenance. Use a reliable test kit to get accurate readings. Keep a log of your test results to track any trends or changes. This will help you diagnose and address potential problems early on. Don’t hesitate to consult with a pool professional if you have any questions or concerns about your water chemistry. They can provide tailored advice based on your specific pool and climate.

Here’s a quick look at the ideal ranges for key water chemistry parameters during winter:

Parameter Ideal Range
pH 7.2 - 7.8
Total Alkalinity 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness 150 - 400 ppm

Remember, following these post-closure maintenance steps will not only protect your investment but also ensure a hassle-free pool opening when warmer weather arrives. A little preventative care goes a long way in keeping your pool sparkling clean and ready for enjoyment.

Closing an Inground Pool: A Comprehensive Guide

Closing an inground pool properly is crucial for protecting it from winter damage and ensuring a smooth opening in the spring. A systematic approach, using the right chemicals and equipment, minimizes the risk of algae growth, liner staining, and equipment damage caused by freezing temperatures. This guide will outline key steps and considerations for a successful inground pool closing.

Begin by balancing your water chemistry. Achieving ideal levels of pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness is paramount. This creates an environment less susceptible to algae and scale formation during the off-season. After balancing, administer a shock treatment to eliminate any existing bacteria and algae. This shock treatment should be a chlorine-based product specifically designed for pool closing.

Next, lower the water level to below the skimmer opening, preventing freezing damage to the skimmer and its associated plumbing. Once the water level is adjusted, thoroughly clean the pool, including the walls, floor, and steps, to remove any debris that might contribute to staining or algae growth. This can be accomplished with a pool vacuum, brush, and leaf net.

Following cleaning, add winterizing chemicals. These specialized chemicals prevent algae growth and protect the pool surfaces during the winter months. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for proper dosage and application. After the chemicals are added, run the filtration system for a recommended period to ensure even distribution.

Finally, winterize your pool equipment. This involves draining water from the pump, filter, heater, and any associated plumbing lines. This prevents freezing and cracking. Consider using compressed air to blow out any remaining water in the lines. Plug all openings, including the skimmer and returns, with winterizing plugs to prevent debris and insects from entering the system.

By meticulously following these steps, you can safeguard your inground pool throughout the winter and simplify the opening process come springtime.

People Also Ask About Closing an Inground Pool

Water Chemistry and Treatment

When should I add winterizing chemicals?

Winterizing chemicals should be added after you’ve balanced the water chemistry, shocked the pool, and lowered the water level. This ensures they can circulate effectively and provide optimal protection throughout the winter.

What type of shock treatment is best for closing?

A chlorine-based shock treatment specifically formulated for pool closing is recommended. These products are typically more concentrated and designed to provide long-lasting protection against algae growth.

Equipment Winterization

How do I properly winterize my pool pump?

Winterizing your pool pump involves draining all the water from it. This can be achieved by removing the drain plugs located on the pump housing. It’s also a good idea to lubricate the O-rings before reinstalling the plugs for the next season.

Do I need to winterize my pool heater?

Yes, winterizing your pool heater is essential to prevent freeze damage. Drain all water from the heater and its associated plumbing lines. Consult your heater’s manual for specific instructions, as procedures may vary depending on the model and type of heater.

General Closing Procedures

How low should I lower the water level?

Lower the water level below the skimmer opening, typically 6-12 inches below. This prevents freezing water from damaging the skimmer and its connected plumbing.

When is the best time to close my inground pool?

The ideal time to close your inground pool is when the water temperature consistently remains below 65°F (18°C). This cooler temperature inhibits algae growth and makes the closing process more efficient.

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